Thor Legvold
2014-05-11 22:00:44 UTC
Quick question for the people here on the list(s).
I’m working on getting my exposure and developmen dialed in, and have read some conflicting info.
"Expose for shadows, develop for highlights" seems to be the mantra.
Ansel would like every exposure to be visualized, exposed accordingly and developed individually to adjust for contrast. But he used sheet film with 40’s - 50’s emulsions. Some online articles say it doesn’t really matter with modern B&W films and you can’t adjust development for a frame on a roll anyway.
With roll-film and more a more modern emulsion (using APX100 and Tri-X 400), how applicable/neccessary is the full-on zone system?
I’ve been testing “placing” values on different frames and have tried developing at both 5 minutes and 7 minutes, Rodinal 1:25 at 24C in a Jobo (constant agitation). Both tests seemed to provide good results, and now I’m curious how precise I need to be to get the best overall negative with as much printable information as possible. With both nice tonality and good contrast.
My current setup doesn’t allow me to print yet, and I wonder if there’s any way to use f.x. a scanner to measure density or at least confirm that I’m getting the most out of my negatives. I do plan on printing them on paper at some point, but first want to get my exposure and development down as ideally as possible. Sending them off to a lab to have them measured on a densiometer is also an option, if that’s the way to go.
Maybe some of the hardcore analogue guys can weigh in? Daniel, Sanders, Slobodan, Dan?
Thanks,
Thor
I’m working on getting my exposure and developmen dialed in, and have read some conflicting info.
"Expose for shadows, develop for highlights" seems to be the mantra.
Ansel would like every exposure to be visualized, exposed accordingly and developed individually to adjust for contrast. But he used sheet film with 40’s - 50’s emulsions. Some online articles say it doesn’t really matter with modern B&W films and you can’t adjust development for a frame on a roll anyway.
With roll-film and more a more modern emulsion (using APX100 and Tri-X 400), how applicable/neccessary is the full-on zone system?
I’ve been testing “placing” values on different frames and have tried developing at both 5 minutes and 7 minutes, Rodinal 1:25 at 24C in a Jobo (constant agitation). Both tests seemed to provide good results, and now I’m curious how precise I need to be to get the best overall negative with as much printable information as possible. With both nice tonality and good contrast.
My current setup doesn’t allow me to print yet, and I wonder if there’s any way to use f.x. a scanner to measure density or at least confirm that I’m getting the most out of my negatives. I do plan on printing them on paper at some point, but first want to get my exposure and development down as ideally as possible. Sending them off to a lab to have them measured on a densiometer is also an option, if that’s the way to go.
Maybe some of the hardcore analogue guys can weigh in? Daniel, Sanders, Slobodan, Dan?
Thanks,
Thor